Category Archives: Morocco

A Mid-Summer Night’s Steam

One-hundred-thirteen steps to the bottom would mean 113 steps back to the top in nothing but my wet underwear after every muscle in my body had been stretched and relaxed into melted jello (I think I was relaxed; either that or completely shocked). Going to the famous Moulay Yacoub Hammam was a pretty big leapContinue Reading

Aging Photographs – Through the Viewfinder

I’m not a photographer. But while traveling, I do have a rule about not photographing people whom I don’t either talk to or ask permission first. People aren’t statues or scenery for tourists to dehumanize like inanimate objects. I passed almost 100 farmers and Berber families along the road from Chefchaouen to Akchour whom IContinue Reading

As Bees In Honey Drown

Relax, everyone. There is no Colony Collapse Disorder. Turns out all the bees just moved to Chefchaouen to steal my honey tea. I waved the white flag and let them have my tea, but Ismail is still fighting the good fight, refusing to relinquish his cup. However, after committing mass geno-suicide in my tea forContinue Reading


In some ways, I hate the word. You may speak English and understand its meaning, but you can also translate it as: “You’re obviously a tourist; come buy something; that’s what you’re good for.” The word is a sign that I’m taking a break from traveling, that I’m somewhere in travel limbo, where I’m noContinue Reading

Aging Photographs – Intimations of Immortality

Five years ago when I was 21, I got my first passport and flew off to Europe for a month. My first time on my own outside of the country, I wanted to snap a photo of every statue, every bakery with a bicycle parked in front of the window, every country house outside aContinue Reading